Description

The distinguished art of Kantha stitch has its roots in the pre-Vedic period (before 1500 BCE) and over centuries have flourished in West Bengal and Odisha. This is one of the traditional arts of West Bengal, Bihar and Odisha and is a manner of self-expression of the womenfolk of these regions. This heirloom is passed on from mothers to their daughters. Motifs and symbols of the art of the primitive times have made their way in the Kantha stitch artworks like trees, animals, fishes, folk scenes, tales of heroism, imageries of rural life, the cosmos, the sun and many more. In West Bengal this art is practiced by our women artists living mainly in the districts of Birbhum, North 24 Parganas, South 24 Parganas, Bardhaman, Hoogly and Murshidabad.
Kantha as an art form was practiced only by the womenfolk who were mainly from the rural background. It was as popular among well-to-do families of the villages as it was among the necessitous ones. Kantha stitch art is a veritable example of imagination, ingenuity, assiduity and artistry of our women artisans. Concomitantly it also shows their inclination towards frugality and leading a sustainable way of livelihood. Kantha refers to the technique of embroidering or stitching as well as the final piece of work. It’s believed that the word Kantha has its roots in the Sanskrit word Kontha which means rug or patched cloth. It all started in the province of West Bengal, India where womenfolk took the initiative reusing old and worn-out pieces of fabric and threads instead of discarding them. They would take some of their used sarees, place one on top of another and create different running stitches on them. The idea was to use old fabric materials and give them a new life. They were usually used as blankets to cover themselves and swaddle their children with. Old pieces of clothes were cut into square and rectangle forms on which the womenfolk embroidered using threads that were naturally dyed –for dyeing madder and indigo were their first preference. These pieces of fabric were used to stitch quilts and wrappings. Each piece of Kantha has its own memories and tales to narrate as these pieces of heirloom art are created, used, shared, repaired and then reused. Kantha stitch artworks are gifted during wedding ceremonies, during Shasti Puja (a puja performed for conceiving), and also during Annaprasana (a ritual of feeding solid food to a child for the first time). Numerous varieties of stitching patterns are used by our women artists to stitch the Kantha, however the most common of them all is the running stitch that gives a dotted effect on both the sides throughout the entire layer of the fabric, renering the fabric a slightly wrinkled effect. Some other kinds of stitches are Shujni Kantha (for bedcovers), Baiton Kantha (used for covering books and valuable articles, Ooar Kantha (used on pillow covers), Lep Kantha (used for making warm, soft quilts), Durjani Kantha (a square piece of Kantha with a central lotus motif, used for covering inside of wallets), Arshilata Kantha (narrow embroidered Kantha used to store combs, small mirrors and other toiletries and Rumal Kantha (used as absorbent wipes or plate covering). Applique works and cross stitchs are also quite common on Kantha. Mandala (a circular figure representing the universe in Hindu and Buddhist symbolism) and Kalasha (metal pitcher with a wide belly and a narrow mouth used in Hindu rituals) are two widely use traditional patterns used by the artists on Kantha.
The Kantha stitch art is a 100% sustainable form of art as it’s made entirely with human effort with the least possible raw materials; in fact it’s a novel way of reusing materials and exerts the least possible burden on our planet. The only devices that are required are a pair of scissors, used threads, old fabric material, needles and thimbles and proper lighting.
With local assistance as well as with patronage from the state and the central government, the women artists of West Bengal have taken this art form to an altogether different dimension by introducing newer styles and designs and made this art even more presentable to acceptable to the world. They have ensured the entry of Kantha stitch in the world of fashion and today Kantha stitch is used widely on sarees, stoles, jackets, various Indian ethnic wears as also other home décor items like purses, cushion covers, wall hangings etc. that has become a style statement for many Indians and foreigners. Nowadays our artists experiment with motifs and patterns from all around the world like pop art, Egyptian mural art and varied types of designer patterns. The art has been successful in curving a niche for itself in the international market and designers from different part of the globe have incorporated the designs and patterns of our artisans in their works.
Express your solidarity towards our women artists, use our Kantha stitch materials and help them fulfil their dreams. Their hard work would pay off when you use their handmade works of art.